diy drill press stand
E. The locking drawers are an tremendous place to storeroom power tools outmoded of the scope of small children to might frequent the perform area. A floor-standing drill press stomach is more powerful and can be used with many kinds of equipment. The help of this type of press is it allows you to run bigger perform pieces for the reason that the register can essentially run the complete piece of the line. Speed can be altered solely by tender a lever from the missing housing, or adjusting the pulleys and belts.Benchtop drill presses are an effectual, economical alternative to floor-standing units. They will complete 95 percent of drill-press needs in the ordinary native soil or small-business workshop. This drill press can rotate its drilling head 90 degrees to the missing to swing made known ended the side-mounted vise to drill axial holes in the tops of a vertical beams or shafts. Drilling enormous holes typically requires a slower pace.E.A drill press stand is a eternal mode of drill stand that can be bolted on the floor or mounted on a abide or workbench.Benchtop drill presses are an effectual, economical alternative to floor-standing units. They will complete 95 percent of drill-press needs in the ordinary native soil or small-business workshop. This drill press can rotate its drilling head 90 degrees to the missing to swing made known ended the side-mounted vise to drill axial holes in the tops of a vertical beams or shafts. Drilling enormous holes typically requires a slower pace.E.A drill press stand is a eternal mode of drill stand that can be bolted on the floor or mounted on a abide or workbench.Benchtop drill presses are an effectual, economical alternative to floor-standing units. They will complete 95 percent of drill-press needs in the ordinary native soil or small-business workshop. This drill press can rotate its drilling head 90 degrees to the missing to swing made known ended the side-mounted vise to drill axial holes in the tops of a vertical beams or shafts. Drilling enormous holes typically requires a slower pace.E.A drill press stand is a eternal mode of drill stand that can be bolted on the floor or mounted on a abide or workbench.Benchtop drill presses are an effectual, economical alternative to floor-standing units. They will complete 95 percent of drill-press needs in the ordinary native soil or small-business workshop. This drill press can rotate its drilling head 90 degrees to the missing to swing made known ended the side-mounted vise to drill axial holes in the tops of a vertical beams or shafts. Drilling enormous holes typically requires a slower pace.E.A drill press stand is a eternal mode of drill stand that can be bolted on the floor or mounted on a abide or workbench.Benchtop drill presses are an effectual, economical alternative to floor-standing units. They will complete 95 percent of drill-press needs in the ordinary native soil or small-business workshop. This drill press can rotate its drilling head 90 degrees to the missing to swing made known ended the side-mounted vise to drill axial holes in the tops of a vertical beams or shafts. Drilling enormous holes typically requires a slower pace.E.A drill press stand is a eternal mode of drill stand that can be bolted on the floor or mounted on a abide or workbench.Benchtop drill presses are an effectual, economical alternative to floor-standing units. They will complete 95 percent of drill-press needs in the ordinary native soil or small-business workshop. This drill press can rotate its drilling head 90 degrees to the missing to swing made known ended the side-mounted vise to drill axial holes in the tops of a vertical beams or shafts. Drilling enormous holes typically requires a slower pace.E.A drill press stand is a eternal mode of drill stand that can be bolted on the floor or mounted on a abide or workbench.Benchtop drill presses are an effectual, economical alternative to floor-standing units. They will complete 95 percent of drill-press needs in the ordinary native soil or small-business workshop. This drill press can rotate its drilling head 90 degrees to theIf you get bored reading about tool repairs, you may want to skip this post.
This drill press has seen better days.
In fact, I could barely believe my eyes when I discovered that every time I turned it on, the direction of the rotation reversed. One flip of the switch and it was drilling properly; turn it off-and-on and it would drill in reverse. Of course, this causes the bit to completely loosen up and fall out, so it posed a bit of a problem.
A little research, a few calls to locate the part (a capacitor from WW Grainger) and it was mostly back in working shape. All except for a nagging little issue - the chuck had very small amount of play in it, from side to side. As you can guess - drilling with a wobbly chuck results in slightly over-sized holes. Not a good thing, as Martha would say.
Over a couple of beers, my buddies suggested that it might be time to replace the bearings on it. Never one to argue with taking a tool apart, I grabbed the manual, and started the tear down.
First- off with the chuck, which was surprisingly easy to pry down.
And then depth gauge rod.
And the bracket that holds it in place.
Next comes the handle which has to disengage from the spring,
which was an interesting (i.e. - an "oh shit!" moment) part to disassemble. When you pull the handle out, the quill falls down.
Rather rapidly, I might add.
I kept I hoping that I would be able to get that same amount of tension back on it.
I could see three of the four bearings that I needed to replace, but the fourth was stuck up, under this top pulley.
Removing the pulley was the biggest problem, it took me a week or more just to locate the right sized deep socket. Thanks to Eddie and Thomas, they located one for me.
And with the help of Thom's big ass impact driver, we had the nut off in no time.
When you're working on something, does your workbench look like this - a big jumble of crap?
After the nut was off, the pulley should have slid right up and off the shaft, but it wasn't cooperating.
No amount of prying, cussing, penetrating oil or muscle would budge it. And finding someone with a pulley puller was even more problematic.
When all else fails... call the manufacturer.
The tool tech I spoke felt there was no way that my machine needed new bearings, despite it's age (born in 1994) or the fact that it's drilled thousands of holes. Maybe tens-of-thousands. He said he'd never heard of one of their drill presses needing new bearings, so he suggested another remedy. A thorough cleaning of all the parts, to dislodge years of sawdust and grime was the first step.
From this
To this.
And this
To this.
And then reassembly. This particular drill press has a set screw rides in a slot on the quill. Here's the slot.
If the set screw either becomes loose, or wears down a bit, it can cause some side to side wobble of the quill. Here's the set screw, housed within a locking nut.
So once the drill press was reassembled, I adjusted the set screw. Too tight and it inhibited the action of the quill spring. Too loose, and it allowed that slight sloppiness.
In the end - simply adjusting the set screw solved the problem.
So the moral of this story? If you're experiencing a problem with one of your tools, a simple phone call to the manufacturer might save you a lot of time and aggravation.
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How to Make a Wooden Cutting Board in 6 Steps
By: Ron Hazelton
Copyright (c) 2010 Ron Hazelton
This projects lets cooks make a durable wooden cutting board with a custom feature. The curved notch at one end is a stylish and useful detail, letting you scrape food from the board directly into the bowl.
Step 1: Decide on the design, dimensions and materials you'll be using for your cutting board. Assemble the required tools and materials. Since you'll be using several power tools, be sure to wear safety glasses. Also, have a facemask for when you sand the cutting board.
Step 2: Assemble the butcher block. Cut three 17-inch lengths of 2-inch thick clear maple on the miter saws. NOTE: These are straight cuts, not miter cuts.
Alternate the wood grain by flipping the middle board over so that its grain runs counter to the outer two boards. Apply wood glue to the edges of the board where they will join. Clamp them together while the glue dries.
Step 3: Smooth the butcher block. Use a belt sander to flatten the cutting board surface so there is no noticeable ridge/transition from board to board. To do this, first move the sander across the boards in a diagonal motion. Once the transition is smooth, sand with the grain along the length of the boards.
Switch to a random orbit sand and to progressively finer grades of sand paper until the surface of the cutting board has no discernible texture.
Trim one end of the board on a table saw. Place the board in a wooden cradle that holds the wood steady as you slide it into the blade. Cut only a thin strip off the end, to smooth the edges of the three boards you glued together. Establish which side of the board will be the top - typically the surface with the more attractive wood grain.
Step 4: Notch the cutting board. Flip the board so the bottom side faces upward and draw a semicircle at the unfinished end with a compass and pencil.
Pass the board through the band saw and cut along the semicircle tracing. Add a drum sander to your drill press and smooth away any saw marks along the curved vertical edge of the circle.
Install a rabbeting bit with ball bearing guides on your router. The bit will cut a recess into the bottom edge of the semicircle while leaving a collar of wood on the top surface. Turn the board bottom side up and route along the edge to form the recess. The recess will allow a bowl of a particular dimension to slide into the board without gaps and to catch the food.
Step 5: Add legs to the chopping block. Drill four legs sockets into the bottom of the cutting board, using a drill press. DO NOT drill through the board. Place a socket at each corner on the flat end of the board, about ½ inch off the long and the short sides. Align the two sockets about ½ inch from the long side of the board, but inset them about two inches from the short side to provide clearance for the semicircle and recess.
Coat the interior of the leg sockets with glue. Tap in short wooden dowels for the legs. Ensure that the dowels are identical in length and tap them into the same depth so the board will stand levelly.
Step 6: Finish the surface. Add a mineral oil coating to protect the board from food and liquids. Sand the mineral oil into the board using No. 400 wet and dry sandpaper.
And there you have it, a cutting board that's durable, stylish and makes cooking and food preparation a little bit easier.
Author Resource:-> Ron Hazelton is a home improvement expert and has been helping homeowners in crisis for years on his TV show "Ron Hazelton's HouseCalls." Want to learn more tricks and tips for your DIY project? Check out his how-to videos athttp://www.ronhazelton.com.
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HTML Ready Article. Click on the "Copy" button to copy into your clipboard.
How to Make a Wooden Cutting Board in 6 Steps
By: Ron Hazelton
Copyright (c) 2010 Ron Hazelton
This projects lets cooks make a durable wooden cutting board with a custom feature. The curved notch at one end is a stylish and useful detail, letting you scrape food from the board directly into the bowl.
Step 1: Decide on the design, dimensions and materials you'll be using for your cutting board. Assemble the required tools and materials. Since you'll be using several power tools, be sure to wear safety glasses. Also, have a facemask for when you sand the cutting board.
Step 2: Assemble the butcher block. Cut three 17-inch lengths of 2-inch thick clear maple on the miter saws. NOTE: These are straight cuts, not miter cuts.
Alternate the wood grain by flipping the middle board over so that its grain runs counter to the outer two boards. Apply wood glue to the edges of the board where they will join. Clamp them together while the glue dries.
Step 3: Smooth the butcher block. Use a belt sander to flatten the cutting board surface so there is no noticeable ridge/transition from board to board. To do this, first move the sander across the boards in a diagonal motion. Once the transition is smooth, sand with the grain along the length of the boards.
Switch to a random orbit sand and to progressively finer grades of sand paper until the surface of the cutting board has no discernible texture.
Trim one end of the board on a table saw. Place the board in a wooden cradle that holds the wood steady as you slide it into the blade. Cut only a thin strip off the end, to smooth the edges of the three boards you glued together. Establish which side of the board will be the top - typically the surface with the more attractive wood grain.
Step 4: Notch the cutting board. Flip the board so the bottom side faces upward and draw a semicircle at the unfinished end with a compass and pencil.
Pass the board through the band saw and cut along the semicircle tracing. Add a drum sander to your drill press and smooth away any saw marks along the curved vertical edge of the circle.
Install a rabbeting bit with ball bearing guides on your router. The bit will cut a recess into the bottom edge of the semicircle while leaving a collar of wood on the top surface. Turn the board bottom side up and route along the edge to form the recess. The recess will allow a bowl of a particular dimension to slide into the board without gaps and to catch the food.
Step 5: Add legs to the chopping block. Drill four legs sockets into the bottom of the cutting board, using a drill press. DO NOT drill through the board. Place a socket at each corner on the flat end of the board, about ½ inch off the long and the short sides. Align the two sockets about ½ inch from the long side of the board, but inset them about two inches from the short side to provide clearance for the semicircle and recess.
Coat the interior of the leg sockets with glue. Tap in short wooden dowels for the legs. Ensure that the dowels are identical in length and tap them into the same depth so the board will stand levelly.
Step 6: Finish the surface. Add a mineral oil coating to protect the board from food and liquids. Sand the mineral oil into the board using No. 400 wet and dry sandpaper.
And there you have it, a cutting board that's durable, stylish and makes cooking and food preparation a little bit easier.
Author Resource:-> Ron Hazelton is a home improvement expert and has been helping homeowners in crisis for years on his TV show "Ron Hazelton's HouseCalls." Want to learn more tricks and tips for your DIY project? Check out his how-to videos athttp://www.ronhazelton.com.
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